Ilha Grande and Paraty: Very Close but Very Different

A short bus and boat ride away from Rio de Janeiro is the laid back island of Ilha Grande. A bit further south along the coast (mainland) is the beautiful colonial city of Paraty. These places have a very different vibe and we enjoyed both very much. As always with us, getting there is its own adventure. The ride between Rio and Ilha should be around 2 hours, plus the boat ride to the island. 30 minutes into our bus the driver just decided to stop at a gas station (this happened again on the way to Paraty). We guess Megabus/Bolt Bus drivers do the same thing (i.e. get free food from fast food joints for bringing the whole bus), but it seems more passable when the drive is 4 hours opposed to 2 hours. Just saying...

Anyways, Ilha Grande is a car free island with many trails that lead you to various post card beaches, stunning lookouts, and various little neighborhoods. Fernando, our wonderful friend from Rio, recommended a wonderful pousada in the main "town," Vila do Abraão. and from there we went on a few day hikes and excursions. Highlights included a full day speed boat tour around the island, and nearby islands, to different beaches for some snorkeling and just lounging around. On our way we saw some incredible private homes, some equipped with helicopter pads, that definitely would fit as a James Bond villain hideaway.

The pousada garden was filled with orchids

Blofeld definitely lives here

Remember that it is winter in Brazil

Had to swim back around to the beach after jumping off the dock

Small little nothing island perfect for lounging

No trouble finding a parking spot

On our last full day we decided to hike over to Lopes Mendes Beach, consistently rated one of Brazil's most beautiful beaches with pretty consistent surf. The 2 hour hike took us up and over the island where we were rewarded with:

Soft white sand with crystal clear blue waters

Unfortunately the surf was non-existent, but the water was refreshing and the sun was hot. We decided to walk back just to the next beach and take the boat back to the main village. This didn't save us much time really, but sailing around was an enjoyable way to spend the last bit of daylight. Some other highlights from the hike include:

View from one of the higher points along the hike back towards mainland Brazil

We made a friend along the way

Over the hills, through the woods, and bamboo forests to get to the beach!

Waiting for the boat to take us back

Another 2 hours from Ilha Grande, back on the mainland, is Paraty. The Portuguese colonial town was founded in 1597 and the historical center feels very much like that with wide cobblestone streets and whitewashed buildings with colorful flare. The streets were designed to flood so the tidal water coming in would wash away the trash, manure, etc. that accumulated in the streets. The streets still flood today, particularly during the full moon. Besides exploring the historic center we also took another boat trip to explore Saco do Mamangua, the only tropical fjord on the Brazilian coast. Similar to our tour around Ilha Grande, but with a much larger boat, we sailed into the "fjord" (A is skeptical and believes it is not technically a fjord) stopping at various beaches to swim and relax while taking in the scenery. It was a perfect send off from the Brazilian coast that treated us so well over the past few weeks before heading to the mind boggling metropolis of Sao Paulo.

Highlights from Paraty's historic center

Jorge Amados (Local drink named after Brazilian author), with samba accompaniment 





One of the beaches we stopped at in Saco do Mamangua


There was actually a house beyond the trees here


Our sendoff from the Brazilian coast

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